(Re)Dressing American Fashion
A revelatory new approach to understanding fashion in America that focuses on the stories told by worn, imperfect, and ordinary clothes Expanding the history of American fashion, this volume highlights garments that carry material traces of everyday wearers' bodies, such as stains, rips, tears, mending, and signs of hand-craftsmanship. In-depth examinations of ten case-study objects--ranging from activist Jae Jarrell's Urban Wall Suit (ca. 1969) to an unknown child's pair of sneakers found at a migrant pickup site in the Sonoran Desert (2009-10)--reveal the ways worn objects are witnesses to American history. By foregrounding worn, ordinary, and imperfect garments, the essays in this volume respond to the fact that histories of American fashion have traditionally centered on mass-manufactured American sportswear, notable designers, whitewashed histories of Western wear, and the "American Look." This canon, though familiar, stands starkly at odds with the lived realities of the American experience. Interviews with wearers and makers, family photographs, and detailed object photography illuminate absences and omissions in the dominant narratives of American fashion. (Re)Dressing American Fashion: Wear as Witness thus sheds new light on how fashion and dress have been used to shape and challenge constructs of American identity at the intersections of race, ethnicity, body size, ability, and gender over more than two centuries. Distributed for Bard Graduate Center Exhibition Schedule: Bard Graduate Center, New York (February 21-July 6, 2025)
Fashion Before Plus-Size
Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2024 In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history-one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture. Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as "overweight." While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion's peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called "stoutwear" was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether. Fashion Before Plus-Size considers what came "before" plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but produces weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardized sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.
The Invention of Design
From a brilliant cultural historian, a fascinating history of the twentieth century told through the story of design and its utopian promises "Fascinating, rigorously researched." ―Atlantic A New Yorker Best Book of the Year Design has penetrated every dimension of contemporary society, from classrooms to statehouses to corporate boardrooms. It's seen as a kind of mega-power, one that can solve all our problems and elevate our experiences to make a more beautiful, more functional world. But there's a backstory here. In The Invention of Design, designer and historian Maggie Gram investigates how, over the twentieth century, our economic hopes, fears, and fantasies shaped the idea of "design"--then repeatedly redefined it. Nearly a century ago, resistance to New Deal-era government intervention helped transform design from an idea about aesthetics into one about function. And at century's end, the dot-com crash brought us "design thinking" the idea that design methodology can solve any problem, small or large. To this day, design captures imaginations as a tool for fixing market society's broken parts from within, supposedly enabling us to thrive within capitalism's sometimes violent constraints. A captivating critical history, The Invention of Design shows how design became the hero of many of our most hopeful stories--dreams, fantasies, utopias--about how we might better live in a modern world.
Entanglements of Designing Social Innovation in the Asia-Pacific
Shosa
Twelve beautiful, mindfully created in-depth portraits of Japanese makers in words and photos, from a bamboo weaver to a tatami mat maker, from a ceramicist to a cook who specialises in puddings. Includes information about different regions to visit in Japan. When visiting Japan, one of the first things that stand out is the calm and respectful way the Japanese behave. A weaver meditatively repeats the exact same movement a thousand times a day, while the tea master dedicates every serene gesture to the harmony of the room. Although in the West we might find it hard to explain this mindful way of moving, the Japanese have a word for it: shosa. In this book, journalist Ringo Gomez and photographer Rob Walbers portray 12 Japanese makers from different regions. From a bamboo weaver to a tatami mat maker, from a ceramist to a Zen monk. Ringo and Rob visited these makers in their workshops and made in-depth portraits in words and pictures. In this book, they report on their journey through Japan, hoping to uncover the complex meaning of shosa through the hands of Japanese makers.
Special Things
Special Things: A Handbook for Creating What Systems Can't DeliverSomething subtle is happening to the world around us.Walk through an international airport. Visit a new urban district. Open any streaming service. No matter where you are, things feel eerily similar-perfect in an empty way. Functional, but forgettable.Yet sometimes-rarely-we encounter something different. A meal that lingers for years. A building that couldn't exist anywhere else. A product that feels not just useful, but essential.These "special things" defy logic and outlast trends. They hold emotional weight, cultural memory, and command value that no process can manufacture. But why do some things move us deeply while others, even those made with care, fall flat?What Makes Special Things SpecialIn this groundbreaking book, Thomas W.I. Kaduk reveals the hidden patterns behind breakthrough products, transformative experiences, and cultural touchstones that matter deeply: The Authentic "Good Enough" - Why excellence isn't maximalism but achieving sufficient quality across all dimensions that matterThe Strange Familiar - How revolutionary innovations balance novelty with recognition to create experiences that feel simultaneously new and inevitableDomain Identification - Why the ability to determine which types of knowledge are relevant to a problem is more crucial than expertise within established domainsDesign by Oversight - How maintaining vision across specialized expertise creates coherence that committee processes systematically eliminateThe Resistance Paradox - Why experts often reject superior innovations, and how to navigate this unexpected barrierWhy This Matters NowAs algorithms generate endless adequacy and systems optimize for averages, creating truly special things becomes both more valuable and more difficult. The standardization that makes global supply chains efficient gradually homogenizes experiences, architecture, products, and environments worldwide.This isn't just an aesthetic concern-it fundamentally affects human wellbeing. When distinctive objects and environments disappear, we lose the cultural anchors that help us locate ourselves in time and tradition. The ability to create special things isn't a luxury but essential for maintaining meaning itself.For Creators, Leaders, and VisionariesWhether you're designing products, building organizations, or investing in innovation, this book provides a framework for understanding what systems can and cannot deliver: Why truly special things emerge from irreplaceable individuals rather than optimized processesHow to identify which domains actually matter for breakthrough innovationWhy coherence across domains creates value that isolated excellence cannotHow to build cultures that protect vision rather than systematically eliminating itThe essential relationship between vision and system in creating meaningIn a world optimized for everything but meaning, this book shows how to recognize, create, and protect what matters-the special things that don't just satisfy needs but change how we understand those needs in the first place.The future doesn't belong to those who perfect processes, but to those who understand where processes must serve vision rather than replace it. It belongs to those who can create what systems can't deliver: the special things that remind us who we are and why it matters.
Needlework, Affect and Social Transformation
Needlework, Affect and Social Transformationoffers an original framework for moving beyond binary discourses that class practices of needlework as either feminist or reactionary. Using transnational, contemporary case studies - such as the Social Justice Sewing Academy, fictionalised Bangladeshi garment workers as well as the famous Pussyhat Project - Katja May suggests a new approach to the interpretation of textile crafts as an affective social practice, and draws on under-represented issues of race.May connects her study to broader material and social conditions of inequality, allowing for a nuanced and sensitive understanding of the role of needlework in feminist political activism. This broader look at how textile crafts function in the realms of politics and activism conceptualizes quilting, dressmaking, embroidery and knitting as routine activities invested with emotions and entangled with material and social conditions as well as political potential.
Capt. Nat’s New Boat
The last century saw the introduction of two technologies destined to change wooden boatbuilding forever. The first was epoxy bonding. By making marine glue joints practical, epoxy bonding changed boat joinery as radically as electric-arc welding changed steel fabrication. The second new technology is computer aided drafting and cutting. From a numerical model of the subject vessel, the loftsmans computer programs produce files depicting the true shapes of a boat's parts--quickly, accurately and repeat-ably. Computer aided drafting replaces the painstaking approximations of traditional lofting. Computer-controlled cutting machines can use the files to automatically produce actual parts from planar materials, such as plywood, at little more than material cost.It is the message of Capt. Nat's New Boat that although today's boat builders have become familiar with epoxy and computerized lofting, these new technologies are far from fully exploited. Capt. Nat's New Boat describes Sanford Boat Company's nine innovations that will transform today's cold molded hull into a stringer-built boat. Sanford's stringer-built boat begins with the realization that the diagonal layers of a cold molded shell structurally replace traditional frames, leaving the builder free to shape the hull and stiffen its shell with easy to form stringers. The other eight proceed from there. The result is a boat offering the strength and beauty of traditional wood construction combining indefinite longevity with lower cost. If you are a lover of wood boats or are thinking of buying one, read Capt. Nat's New Boat to discover what you can look forward to. Or, if you are a boat builder, read it and surprise your competitors.
How to Draw Sci-Fi Fantasy Mecha
A detailed guide to creating retro-futuristic fantasy vehicles for sci-fi illustrators! This all-in-one guide takes you inside the artist's studio to learn firsthand how to conceptualize and draw new fantasy sci-fi vehicles. This book gives fantasy illustrators detailed information on the following topics: Designing three-dimensional vehicles using a perspective grid, schematics, blueprints and linear and axial measurementsUsing real-world inspirations--from modes of transport to animals and organic forms--as the basis for more fantastical forms and creationsIllustration techniques that allow you to create realistic three-dimensional vehicles: line, depth, shadow, coloration and rendering the surfaces of various materialsStep-by-step tutorials, six in all, allow you to create sci-fi mashups of cars, copters, jet fighters and battleships or use these designs as the inspiration for your own creationsIllustrated with over 450 drawings and examples, this book is the perfect springboard to creating your own mind-blowing mecha vehicles. Your imagination will soar as these fantastic machines come to life!
Design Heuristics for Emerging Technologies
A forward-looking framework for ethical, human-centered technology design.Unlike most books on AI and justice that stop at critique, Design Heuristics for Emerging Technologies goes further. Drawing on two decades of product design and industry leadership, Kem-Laurin Lubin presents an actionable framework for evaluating, rethinking, and redesigning technology itself. At the center of the book is Lubin's Design Heuristics framework, a structured set of principles that guide more inclusive and equity-driven design. Within this framework, she introduces her signature concept of Ethotic Heuristics-a groundbreaking approach to addressing how women are represented and misrepresented in AI and technology systems. The book provides readers with: Field-shaping framework for building technologies rooted in justice and inclusionEthotic Heuristics, Lubin's signature innovation, offering principles for ethical characterization in AIIlluminating case studies on women's health, privacy, consent, and cultural representationInfluential contribution that bridges technical expertise with feminist and community-centered critiquePractical, rigorous, and culturally grounded, Design Heuristics equips designers, policymakers, and scholars to move beyond critique and create technologies that truly serve humanity.
Designing Transformative Change
Design, as a discipline, has historically demonstrated responsiveness to societal developments and crises. However, amidst the multifaceted challenges of our times, there is a growing discourse surrounding the potential for design to not only react but also serve as a catalyst for transformative change. This discourse raises pivotal questions about the role of design in fostering hope, generating realistic solutions, and mitigating global and local crises. Drawing upon interdisciplinary perspectives and empirical research as well as case studies, the contributors to this volume critically examine the evolving role of designers in responding to contemporary crises.
Print Design for Textiles
With more than 25 years of professional experience, 15 years as a dedicated educator, and a mastery of multiple design disciplines, the author of this book stands as a towering figure in the field. This book "Print Design for Textiles" teaches basic and advanced techniques for working with Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop in print development. It is designed specifically for the field of textile design. An indispensable reference work for designers, illustrators and students at design schools. Important tools, program functions and techniques in Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop are explained step-by-step. Most of the steps are shown graphically so that a quick and precise realization of the respective project is easy and everyone can understand the structure of a print, whether it is an allover print or a placement print.You will learn about: * The key components of Illustrator and Photoshop for textile design.* Beginner-friendly tutorials on the most important techniques for print development in fashion and Interior Design.* Tips for creating and editing print designs with Illustrator and Photoshop like a professional designer.* Design tricks to quickly create beautiful and professional allover prints and placement prints.* Workflow simplification through automation, insider ideas, and time-saving shortcuts.* Real projects that lead to a professional result.What Makes This Book Special: * With detailed screenshots and drawings, step-by-step tutorials, it's perfect for visual learners.* It just covers the essential topics and just offers helpful guidance.* This book contains as a reference the most important patterns with descriptions that exist (over 120 pattern designs).* This book is designed for all skill levels - from hobby digital artists to professional artists.
Design History Reader
Created by students, for students, Design History Reader espouses a pluralistic, communal approach to tackling design issues The goal of this collaborative, enthusiastic textbook on design history is to create a resource offering a diverse, inclusive view of graphic design history, specifically articulated through the student voice. Design History Reader was led by Kristen Coogan, Associate Professor of Art and Graphic Design at Boston University, who applies the department's pluralistic approach to the topic. The case studies featured in this book are real-life examples from her students that demonstrate the practical, ubiquitous applications of design theory. They began as a curricular revision and evolved into a new form of design history pedagogy. Already a part of Boston University's graphic design curriculum, this student-focused reader is an excellent choice for course adoption, or for the bookshelf of an independent aspiring designer.Contributors include: Annabella Pugliese, Belle Bennet, Charles Li, Dar Saravia, Ellen Johnson, Flora Kerner, Grace Chong, Haya AlMajali, Julia Cheung, Kristina Shumilina, Lauren Had, Leila Garner, Maidha Salman, Natalie Seitz, Rayne Schulman, Rhea Jauhar, Rashina Wang, Sheryl Peng, Sophie Zimbler, Tzu-Hsuan Huang, Winnie Mei, Xiuqi Ran, Yue Luo.
Transatlantic Threads
Transatlantic Threads shows how studying the making, use and meaning of a relatively low-cost, utilitarian cloth like linen, broadens our understanding of eighteenth-century Scotland and the wider Atlantic world. Different types of linen cloth were used across society everyday: from fine shirts worn by the rich, to coarse aprons worn by labourers; from expensive bed sheets, to canvas used for ships' sails. Eighteenth-century linen production was a Scottish economic success story, with thousands of people working to produce millions of yards of yarn and woven cloth. It was also how Scots became inextricably linked with transatlantic trade and the slavery economy, as the desire to capture the colonial market was a key driver for developing coarse linen production. Using a material commodity to explore everyday experiences of ordinary people, particularly women, non-elite and enslaved people, Transatlantic Threads examines the cultural and social significance of linen in Scottish and transatlantic society.
Made in Italy
Made in Italy is the definitive narrative history of how Italian motorcycles became the world's most beautiful, technically audacious, and culturally iconic superbikes. From the trellis-framed Ducati 916 to the hub-centre Bimota Tesi and the MV Agusta F4's sculptural inline-four, this book dives deep into the fusion of speed, style, and regional pride that shaped Italy's most revered two-wheeled machines.Told through the rise and fall of marques like Ducati, MV Agusta, Bimota, Moto Guzzi, and Laverda, this book chronicles the designers, engineers, and visionaries who turned motorcycles into rolling works of art. It examines the aesthetic philosophies behind tank curves, tail sections, and livery, alongside the racing legacies that fuelled global obsession-from Imola '72 to MotoGP domination.Complete with vivid storytelling, technical insight, cultural context, and a collector's guide, Made in Italy is for enthusiasts who believe a superbike should be felt in the chest and remembered like a sculpture.
What Dress Makes Of Us
Unlock the secrets of timeless elegance with "What Dress Makes of Us" by Dorothy Quigley, a captivating exploration of fashion's transformative power. Once lost to time, this classic has been lovingly restored and republished by Alpha Editions, making it a must-have collector's item and cultural treasure for today's and future generations. Dive into Quigley's witty and insightful analysis of how clothing shapes identity and society. With a keen eye for detail and a sharp sense of humor, she reveals the subtle art of dressing to express one's true self. This book is not just a guide to fashion; it's a journey through the social fabric of the past, offering valuable lessons that resonate even today. Whether you're a casual reader or a connoisseur of classic literature, "What Dress Makes of Us" promises to enrich your understanding of style and its enduring impact. Don't miss the chance to own this beautifully restored edition, a testament to the timeless allure of fashion and the written word.
Adaptive Fashion
How can clothing better serve people with disabilities?Drawing from research and personal interviews from industry representatives and consumers, author Susan Rothman Kolko examines the roles the fashion industry plays in supporting and encouraging inclusive products. The apparel industry has challenges but is moving towards realistic adaptive solutions in clothing. From equal rights to understanding identity in the social world, this book provides insight and inspiration for designers and a working vocabulary for diversity in clothing.Adaptive Fashion is ideal reading for students studying fashion, disability, diversity, history, business, marketing, sociology, and technology.
How to Become a Fashion Designer
In How to Become a Fashion Designer, award-winning designer and St. Martins College graduate shares a compelling and practical roadmap to success in the world of high fashion. With collections featured in Vogue and Elle, and a client list that includes some of the world's most prestigious department stores, the author brings unparalleled expertise to every page.From choosing the right fashion school to creating a portfolio that captures the attention of top brands, this sophisticated guide breaks down the essential steps for launching and growing a successful fashion career. Discover how to nurture your creativity, navigate the business side of the industry, and prepare for both the challenges and opportunities of working at the highest levels of fashion.Whether you're a student, an aspiring designer, or simply passionate about leaving your mark on the fashion world, this book provides real-world insights and professional strategies to help you stand out and stay ahead.Get ready to enter the world of premium fashion-with guidance and mentorship from someone who's lived the journey.
From Sketch to Success
Everything you need to know about nurturing a design dream. This book can help you to plan a "Design Education Journey". The chapters in this book will ease the discomfort of all those parents who seek answers to many questions. Those who want to nurture design dreams for their children will find affirmations here. You will know: Where to begin?What are types of Intelligences.The observations you need to make.All you want to know about marks.How catching them in action will give you direction. Being open to curriculum will open new doors. Understanding how communication is the key to helping children do better. The most interesting part of doodling and more. How a 360 Degrees approach will ease everything. A new light to understand Math, Science, Social Studies, Languages & More. About the Author: Dr.Sharmila Nagraj Nandula is an academician, entrepreneur, and lifelong learner.She has 30+ years of experience working with students of design, research, retail, industry, grassroots technologies, weavers, and artisans. She is the former director of various arts and design schools and created and built an academic legacy in Telangana. She was the founding member of NIFT, Hyderabad where she was also an Associate Professor for a decade. Dr. Sharmila conducts many workshops and gives lectures around design education, motivation, entrepreneurship, innovation, and leadership. She sums up her life so far in three domains: Design, Education, and Empowerment.
Twelve Days of Story Time with Lula’s Collection of Children’s Stories
Embrace your family and cuddle up together for these captivating stories featuring new characters that you will come to learn and love! When Mother Bunny's pie is missing, the family pulls together to help search. Blair enjoys her live-bird collection. Ben finds a friend in a magic lemon, and Sydney takes charge. With twelve fantastic stories that can each be read in five minutes, this collection of children's stories is the ideal storybook for bedtime, story time or any time!
Leatherworking 101
Do you want to master the captivating art of leatherworking to be able to create beautiful leather pieces like belts, bags, and more? And are you looking for a blueprint that will take the guesswork away from the whole process of learning leatherworking by understanding the steps, and techniques that, once mastered, make the difference between pros and quacks? If so, then you've come to the right place because, This beginner's guide to mastering the art of leatherworking will introduce you to the world of leatherworking and help you polish your skills to perfection! Making fine leather pieces might seem like a complicated affair that requires advanced skills that take years to learn. However, with the right training, it is possible to learn and perfect the skill in a record time! And this book seeks to provide the much-needed guidance to get you started in the world of leatherworking in a record time! So, if you've toyed with the idea of learning leatherworking but haven't because you have all manner of questions going through your mind, such as... Where do I start? What do I need to get started? How do I learn the art of leatherworking? What safety considerations should I consider when venturing into leatherworking? How do I make different leather pieces? How do I go about cutting, stitching and finishing different leather pieces? How do I know which type of leather to use for different tasks? What mistakes should I watch out for, and how do I resolve various challenges? You are about to discover answers to all these and other related questions.
The Prize of Success
In the small world of Swiss graphic design, prizes such as the Swiss Design Awards (SDA) are followed closely. The winners' works are admired, envied and emulated. The generous prize money allows designers to launch their careers and focus on lesser paid but critically recognised work. Awards thus play the role of bellwethers of the scene. However, criticisms inevitably arise. Speaking in hushed tones, designers speculate as to why a colleague won over another. Rumours have it that jury members favour their inner circles and exclude competitors. Analysing this universe in detail, Jonas Berthod retraces the recent history of the SDA and the emergence of a new design culture in Switzerland.
Svenskt Tenn
'Captures the brand's aesthetic brilliance and radical ethos - where beauty, ecology, and purpose go hand in hand.' - Vogue 'A 400-page gambol through the company's archives ... a colourful, esoteric world governed by good taste and considered flashes of maximalism' - Financial TimesA special survey published to celebrate 100 years of the influential and innovative Swedish design company Svenskt TennIn 1924, the pioneering designer and entrepreneur Estrid Ericson founded Svenskt Tenn in Stockholm, Sweden. Initially a workshop and retail store dedicated to pewter, Svenskt Tenn's range was quickly expanded by Ericson into one of the most successful home furnishings and interior design companies of the twentieth century.Svenskt Tenn: Interiors celebrates the legacy of the company's first 100 years, while also marking its position at the forefront of interior design today. Richly illustrated and beautifully designed, the book delves into the story of Ericson and the company she grew, examining her creative relationship with acclaimed Austrian designer Josef Frank, whose magnificent, boldly patterned textiles and furniture helped define Svenskt Tenn's distinct aesthetic.Pages of colourful imagery, including never-before-seen photographs and drawings from Svenskt Tenn's archive, reveal an immaculate selection of classic objects, furniture, and textiles, alongside examples of collaborations with contemporary designers including Michael Anastassiades, Lars Nilsson, Luca Nichetto, Ingegerd R疇man, and Fornasetti. Designed by the Dutch graphic designer Irma Boom, Svenskt Tenn: Interiors shows how the iconic Swedish brand continues to create objects of the highest quality to improve and enhance everyday life.
Taylor Made
Singer-songwriter supreme, Taylor Swift is a global phenomenon. Yet in addition to being the most streamed female artist on Spotify, she has become a hugely influential and empowering fashion icon for millions of fans across the world. Dive into 'Taylor Swift: Fashion Manifesto' and discover, through an array of stunning images, the depths of her style evolution and fashion journey. From the country-girl gingham and cowboy boot combos she favoured during the early days of her super- stellar career, to the designer gowns and custom-made sparkling Versace bodysuit she sported on her Eras Tour. Whether at work, at play, at home or on the Red Carpet, La Swift's fashion instinct, flare and sartorial sass is as superb as her music. As a testament to how far her fashion influence has stretched, this beautifully illustrated hardback edition will not only break down her eras of fashion, but explore her ultimate best red carpet looks, her world of accessories, the burst of brands involved, and how the Swifties never fail to honour these top trends! What better way to tell her lively fashion story than through this visual journey spanning the course of her stardom.
How to Become a Fashion Designer
In How to Become a Fashion Designer, award-winning designer and St. Martins College graduate shares a compelling and practical roadmap to success in the world of high fashion. With collections featured in Vogue and Elle, and a client list that includes some of the world's most prestigious department stores, the author brings unparalleled expertise to every page.From choosing the right fashion school to creating a portfolio that captures the attention of top brands, this sophisticated guide breaks down the essential steps for launching and growing a successful fashion career. Discover how to nurture your creativity, navigate the business side of the industry, and prepare for both the challenges and opportunities of working at the highest levels of fashion.Whether you're a student, an aspiring designer, or simply passionate about leaving your mark on the fashion world, this book provides real-world insights and professional strategies to help you stand out and stay ahead.Get ready to enter the world of premium fashion-with guidance and mentorship from someone who's lived the journey.
Film and Fashion in Japan, 1923-39
The book examines the interaction between the audience member and Japan's film and fashion industries between 1923 and 1939, focusing on Western-inspired fashion objects (as opposed to indigenous Japanese items, such as the kimono). This interdisciplinary book examines the semiotics of dress onscreen within Japan's transcultural media climate, consulting not only film- or fashion-related theoretical bases but also historical and gender-based approaches. The work consults surviving films, print media and advertising materials, allowing insights into lost films and the period's commercial context. The book discusses the role of fashion consumption in defining emergent modern identities and their relationships with new spaces, questioning their arising in Japan and worldwide. Key areas include the expressive Modern Girl image (the Japanese equivalent of the Hollywood flapper); the relationship between the body and sportswear and hybridised dress styles (which combined Japanese and Western-influenced aesthetics); and menswear in the early work of director Ozu Yasujirō.
Bending the Rules
Bending the Rules is a fascinating, provocative, and highly entertaining visual exploration of identity and gender through fashion. Celebrated costume designer Camille Benda seamlessly weaves together the cutting-edge and the historical--spanning high fashion, dress in film, trendsetting brands, art history, and more--showing that gender and fashion have always been intertwined. Brought to life with a dazzling array of more than 160 images, Bending the Rules combines short essays and interviews with creative professionals to offer snapshots of fashion and gender expression across cultures, places, and time. This unique portrait of fashion and identity explores how clothing can be serious and playful, limiting or liberating, express joy or longing, fear or fun, and much more. Readers will find captivating examples as wide-ranging as gender-confirming underwear line Urbody to Buddhist monastic life, Brad Pitt's red-carpet skirt to gay cowboys and codpieces, Playboy and bustiers to Native American Two-Spirit beings. For anyone fascinated by fashion or the sociology of clothing, identity, and gender, this book offers a one-of-a-kind immersive experience. VISUALLY RICH: More than 160 visuals include illustrations by Gwyn Conaway, a costume designer, fashion historian, and culture specialist, as well as archival and contemporary photography, self-portraits, magazine covers, embroidery, and more. AN ACCESSIBLE ENTRY POINT TO THE WORLD OF FASHION: Through illustrated timelines, custom graphics, and content crafted with a sense of humor, playfulness, and curiosity, this artful social science book is accessible for newcomers and experienced fashion enthusiasts, from tweens exploring their own newly forming identity to cool aunts and switched-on grandparents. A GLOBAL APPROACH: From an 18th-century French chevalier to Japanese kimonos, medieval alchemical manuscripts to 15th-century Flemish paintings, African Ndebele aprons to Scottish tartans, this deeply researched exploration spans time, cultures, and geography. Perfect for: Fashion enthusiasts Costume and clothing designers Beauty and body image advocates LGBTQIA and nonbinary readers seeking examples of gender expression throughout history Students and educators Anyone interested in fashion, design, gender studies, sociology, and history
Stand Out with Your Scientific Poster
This book provides you with a step-by-step guide to making a scientific poster that has real impact. Are you a researcher who struggles when it comes to creating scientific posters? Or do you simply want to get better at it? This book provides you with a step-by-step guide to making a poster that has real impact to ensure you stand out from the crowd at your next poster fair. A practical guide that gives you answers to questions like: what to put on a poster (and mainly: what not to)? How do you come up with a title that immediately grabs people's attention? What are the best images to use? How many words can you include on your poster? And much, much more... Everything you need to get started step-by-step and quickly achieve the best result.
Marcus & Co.
The New York jewellery firm of Marcus & Co. created exceptional examples of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery. This volume chronicles their story, from the founder's apprenticeship to the firm's premises on Fifth Avenue, neighbouring Tiffany and Cartier. The New York jewelry firm of Marcus & Co. (1892-1942) created exceptional examples of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry for an art-loving, wealthy elite. Innovative in their collaboration with contemporary artists, and in their captivating window displays and advertisements, the firm captured the imagination of Gilded Age families such as the Rockefellers. This volume chronicles their story, from the founder's apprenticeship in Dresden to the firm's grand premises on Fifth Avenue neighboring Tiffany and Cartier. The triumphs and tragedies of three generations of Marcus jewelers, both artistic and entrepreneurial, are presented here together with exquisite jewelry and archival design drawings spanning 50 years.
Flightmaster Only
The highly evocative Flightmaster name was first mentioned by OMEGA in 1956-57, but it was not until the late 1960s that it was used to designate an incomparable watch, initially intended for aircraft pilots. At the time, it was regarded as the watch industry equivalent of the Swiss army knife, meaning the ultimate professional instrument. The aesthetically and technically remarkable OMEGA Flightmaster symbolizes a period rich in technological and design breakthroughs. Produced over a short period and relatively little known until now, it nonetheless enjoyed exceptional development and an outstanding destiny, notably on the wrist of Soviet cosmonauts in the 1970s. Revealing the entirely unknown and remarkably rich story for the first time, and based on their own methodology, the authors of the successful Moonwatch Only book dedicated to the OMEGA Speedmaster, provide a comprehensive account of the many variations and evolutions of the different Flightmaster models. The result is an essential reference work for all passionate brand enthusiasts and collectors.
How to Create a Universe
How to Create a Universe helps you create and understand the universes that you love from books, films, TV series and games. Through ideas, reflections, drawings, conversations, theories and first-hand examples, the book takes the mystery out of universe building and provides new knowledge and methods for understanding and creating content for fictional universes. You can use the methods in the book to develop, conceptualize and devise universes whether you are a game creator, film producer, writer, TV series showrunner, designer, theatre director, artist, researcher, student or educator - or simply enjoy being a curious explorer wishing to understand the creative process of building a fictional universe. The book follows a similar approach to design research by focusing on methods and tools and, not least, interdisciplinary collaboration. Combining approaches from art research and the humanities with media studies and development processes, the book draws on extensive studies of works across different media, including film, TV series, games, computer games, theatre, literature and oral lore. We are inspired by explanations from narrative theory and biological evolution of the human urge to create and delve into fiction and fictive universes. Furthermore, we share the interest in methods, tools and collaboration models that characterizes design thinking. The book's nine chapters contain insights into the process of universe building from idea to publication; interviews with some of the world's leading universe thinkers and builders; practical exercises for developing universes across traditional, new and future media formats; and more than 200 drawings and illustrations of models and examples to provide support and inspiration. The authors draw on knowledge and information collected around the world over several years. In the book, you will meet people who have been involved in creating and developing the universes for Squid Game, Fight Club, The Terminal, Minority Report, Your Name, Suzume, Black Mirror, Mr. Turner, Wallace and Gromit, PandemicLegacy, Dead of Winter, Dark, Lego, El Tigre, Avatar, Spiderman, Halo, Quirky Circuits, End of Night, The Guilty and Enforcement.
Golden Glass
- A stunning tour of the work of Miriam Ellner, the world's foremost foremost practitioner of verre eglomis矇- Featuring hundreds of illustrations and photographs, recollections from the world most renowned interior designers and architects, and the story of Ellner's artistic developmentGolden Glass: Verre ?glomis矇 brings the reader into the glittering world of Miriam Ellner, the foremost practitioner of verre 矇glomis矇, the ancient process of gilding precious metals on the reverse side of glass, etching in a design, and setting it off with color. While it was first developed in 200 BC, Ellner is one its acknowledged modern masters. These seductive materials coalesce to enliven the surface of glass with luminous reflections creating moving glass paintings. She is one of few experts in this rare art form, making it fresh and relevant in the 21st century. Her work enhances private collections and design projects around the world. Beginning her career as a dancer, Ellner brings energy, dynamism, and sense of motion to her art. This book offers stunning views into both Ellner's process, her personal work, and the way she has worked on commissions with many leading interior designers and architects to create pieces that transform their rooms and bridge the worlds of art, craft, and design. Golden Glass: Verre ?glomis矇 contains reflections from her collaborators, coupled with hundreds of incredible photographs, as well as Ellner's own insights into her decades-long practice, journeying into the ethereal world of illumination, reflection, and color.
Lewis Foreman Day (1845-1910)
Lewis Foreman Day (1845-1910) is one of the most neglected figures in late nineteenth-century design. In exploring Day's dual career as an industrial designer of extraordinary range and versatility as well as a major writer and critic, this well-illustrated book restores his place among the influential figures of his time. Day's relationships with colleagues William Morris, Walter Crane, W.A. S. Benson and others placed him in the vortex of development of design in Britain. Joan Maria Hansen, design historian, examines Day's work as a prolific industrial designer whose mastery of pattern, color, ornament and superb draftsmanship resulted in tiles and art pottery, clocks and furniture, wallpapers, textiles, stained glass, and interiors of remarkable diversity and beauty. Day embraced modern technology. His views on the role of the designer for industry, along with his unshakable belief that a marriage of design and industrial processes was essential to produce beautiful furnishings for the majority of people, reveal him to be startlingly modern in his attitudes and practice in the changing world of industrial production. Today collectors prize Lewis F. Day's clocks, furniture, tiles and art pottery, and books - which he both wrote and designed - along with reproductions of his patterns for wallpapers and textiles which are enjoyed by enthusiasts. Day's textbooks on design continue to influence designers, and his magazine journalism provides insightful and balanced commentary on developments in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century design. This book - the very first full treatment of this major figure - is the definitive reference on Day's life and work and is an invaluable reference for collectors and dealers, decorative arts professionals, designers, business historians and enthusiasts of late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century design.
Fashion Under Fascism
Looking at the dark history of Italian fashion by focusing on the impact of 1930s Fascism, this is the second edition of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text. In Fashion under Fascism, Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Alongside interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, this newly expanded revised edition includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. It sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics and is an essential read for all those interested in the history of fashion, politics, national identity and the culture of fascism.
Thinking Through Fashion
A vital update to the definitive guide to fashion and cultural theory, featuring four new chapters and essential revisions throughout in light of key developments in fashion and fashion studies. Across 19 major thinkers from the 19th to the 21st century, the second edition of this comprehensive collection introduces readers to the process of thinking through rich cultural fields such as fashion with the help of social and cultural theory, and thinking through social and cultural theory with the help of fashion. Each chapter guides you through the work of a major thinker and considers their historical context, the role of fashion within their theory, how their theoretical frameworks apply to contemporary fashion studies, and the strengths and limitations of their approach. Featuring new chapters on key theorists Edward Said, bell hooks, Frantz Fanon and W.E.B. Du Bois, this new edition prepares readers to question and diversify the field of fashion. A revised introduction resituates theories in relation to each other and reflects on changing approaches to fashion studies, while revisions to existing chapters equip readers with the most up-to-date critical perspectives and developments in fashion and fashion theory.
The Pocket Universal Principles of Branding
This pocket-size version of Universal Principles of Branding presents 100 concepts, theories, and guidelines that are critical for understanding brands and branding in a handy, condensed take-along format. *Winner of the 2023 American Graphic Design Award for Book Design from Graphic Design USA* Richly illustrated and easy to navigate, this comprehensive reference pairs clear one-page explanations of each principle with visual examples of it applied in practice on the facing page. By considering these concepts and examples, you can learn to make more informed, and ultimately better, branding decisions. Featured principles are as diverse as: AuthenticitySocial ResponsibilityWorld BuildingGatekeepersRituals and routineEach principle is presented in a two-page format. The left-hand page contains a succinct definition, a full description of the principle, examples of its use, and guidelines for use. Sidenotes appear to the right of the text, and provide elaborations and references. The right-hand page contains visual examples and related graphics to support a deeper understanding of the principle. The titles in the Rockport Universal series offer comprehensive and authoritative information and edifying and inspiring visual examples on multidisciplinary subjects for designers, architects, engineers, students, and anyone who is interested in expanding and enriching their design knowledge.
Fashion Jewels: Coppola E Toppo
A true work of passion, this book lovingly charts the creative path of Italian jewelry designers Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola, famed for their intricate over the top designs of clustered beadsSumptuous illustrations complement a well-researched and accessible textThe duo designed for Valentino, Dior, Balenciaga and Pucci and many more, and worn by countless Hollywood stars and on catwalks the world over Deanna Farneti Cera first glimpsed the jewels of Coppola e Toppo in 1987 at an auction house in Milan. Instantly fascinated by their diversity, the evocative power of the colors, the wealth of shapes and motifs and the multitude of materials used, she soon developed an overwhelming passion for the stunning creations. This book, researched over the last twenty years, is the culmination of that passion and a reconstruction of the creative path of Coppola e Toppo, charting their inspiring partnership from their first appearance in VOGUE in 1948, through to Lyda's death in 1986.
Chair
A compelling collection of the world's most innovative, stylish, and influential chairs from across the globeThroughout history, the chair has presented designers the world over with infinite opportunities to experiment with new production methods and innovative materials within the set parameters of an object that is primarily there to serve a practical purpose.Now available with a new cover, Chair: 500 Designs that Matter celebrates the humble chair as never before, from early examples to today's cutting-edge creations. It invites you to sit back and be taken on a journey through the creative imaginations of hundreds of internationally renowned designers.Featured designers include: Alvar Aalto, Eero Aarnio, Ron Arad, Cini Boeri, Erwan and Ronan Bouroullec, Marcel Breuer, Campana Brothers, Charles and Ray Eames, Naoto Fukasawa, Frank Gehry, Jaime Hay.n, Arne Jacobsen, Hella Jongerius, Finn Juhl, Shiro Kuramata, Erwine and Estelle Laverne, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Jasper Morrison, George Nakashima, George Nelson, nendo, Charlotte Perriand, Gaetano Pesce, Jean Prouv矇, Snarkitecture, Patricia Urquiola, Otto Wagner, and Hans Wegner.
84, Charing Cross Road
This wonderful show is a dramatization of business letters between a young struggling writer in New York and an antiquarian book store in London. In a sense, these are also love letters. They are about the love of good literature. The play takes place over a twenty year period, beginning in 1949 when Helene Hanff (played on Broadway by Ellen Burstyn) first writes Marks & Co. and ends in 1969 with the death of Frank Doel, the delightfully dusty supplier of so many old volumes to Helen who has shown her gratitude through the years by sending "care packages" to the staff of Marks & Co.
Things That Keep Us Busy
An investigation of interactivity, interfaces and their design, and the webs of complex interactions that result. We are surrounded by interactive devices, artifacts, and systems. The general assumption is that interactivity is good--that it is a positive feature associated with being modern, efficient, fast, flexible, and in control. Yet there is no very precise idea of what interaction is and what interactivity means. In this book, Lars-Erik Janlert and Erik Stolterman investigate the elements of interaction and how they can be defined and measured. They focus on interaction with digital artifacts and systems but draw inspiration from the broader, everyday sense of the word. Viewing the topic from a design perspective, Janlert and Stolterman take as their starting point the interface, which is designed to implement the interaction. They explore how the interface has changed over time, from a surface with knobs and dials to clickable symbols to gestures to the absence of anything visible. Janlert and Stolterman examine properties and qualities of designed artifacts and systems, primarily those that are open for manipulation by designers, considering such topics as complexity, clutter, control, and the emergence of an expressive-impressive style of interaction. They argue that only when we understand the basic concepts and terms of interactivity and interaction will we be able to discuss seriously its possible futures.
The Social Object
A study of objects and domestic spaces of middle-class India. Drawing on the methods of design history, material culture studies, and the social construction of technology, this book analyzes the domestic spaces and objects in the homes of the middle class in India, describing how people make meaning of the objects they buy, own, and gift. Soumitri Varadarajan argues against a simplistic universal account of the way we think about how objects are designed. Instead, he presents a biography of projects and objects, offering a detailed and affectionate account of the lives of objects within the homes of the not-so-rich.
